Jimi Hendrix sings 'castles made of sand melt into the sea, eventually' and a friend of mine is fond of saying "If you want to amuse god, tell her your plans for the future."
Monica and I are now pursuing different paths with our lives. We have chosen to hold on to the memories of the wonderful love that we were fortunate enough to share and let go of the disappointment of dreams unfulfilled. Hopefully all of our friends, family and others can do the same because our lives are far too short to hold on to sadness. As we all know we did not come with owner manuals so we can only do the best that we can to make the right decisions. An appropriate quote would be by an unknown (to me) author, "We are all bozos on this bus." ;O)
I will no longer post on this blog and I doubt that I will start another. Also, I will no longer monitor the beach_access... email address. I do respond to all emails sent to me at captainglenndelivers@hotmail.com but on an infrequent basis because it requires being on the internet. If you require a faster way to contact me please send that request via email.
I hope I am not plagiarizing anyone as I claim the following quote as my new motto, "The past is the past and the future is exciting." My wish to you all is that hopefully everyone that you come in contact with causes you to smile...for one reason or another.
Glenn
Monday, May 26, 2008
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Maybe the last photos
This was the sunset on our passage from Baja to Tenacatita
This is the mouth of the jungle river looking out to the bay.
So the day after everyone had left I was on my first solo passage. It was short, only from the lagoon in Barra Navidad to Tenacatita, but I found myself with too much sail up as I was about to round Cabeza Navidad and had to do a reef. I was not a happy person due to my new solo status and more than a little apprehesive about the task at hand. All went well but I was still feeling low. In my head the refrain from a song is on an endless loop ' cause you left me just when I needed you most'. Just then not fifty yards behind me a whale rockets out of the water flipping on its back creating a treamendous splash. The whale continued following me and doing this for 10 minutes. I had a huge smile on my face and all I could say was, thank you.The jungle cruise
The Jungle cruise starts out wide
and then narrows
and then narrows more.
Barely enough room for an egret to fly
The end of the river. From here we walk across to the beach with the restaurants and bars.Bahia Tenacatita
Beach Access at anchor in Bahia Tenacatita
The shore near the river entrance
Cabeza Navidad - You have to round this to get to Barra NavidadMore pictures of the crew
Captain Glenn
Paula the writer contemplating verse.
Rebecca as she is most often seen, laughing and smiling
I CAUGHT A DORADO WITH THE HELP OF THE CREW OF BEACH ACCESSParting words from Paula
--------------------------
--- 2.6.08 - Tenacatita ---
Wednesday morning we headed for the river entrance to begin the jungle
tour. Tho a bit shallow we managed to get through the entrance with
only minor bumper car action. The River meandered back and forth and was
lined with mangroves on either side.
The first part of the trip the water way was open and the sun
illuminated the bird life in the trees. As the cruise progressed the
channel narrowed and trees grew together creating tunnels. At some point
our cruise began to resemble the Disney Jungle Tour with our combined
imagination and Rebecca's tour guide narration. Floating bark became
shed crocodile skin. Mangrove limbs hacked away to accommodate pangas
became menacing fingers of doom ready to pluck unsuspecting cruisers
from their dingies. Thankfully, we reached the end before things got
too out of hand.
The path ended up into a lagoon with a clearing to one side where others
had beached their rides. We walked a short distance up a dirt road and
found ourselves on the beach with several restaurant options for lunch
and refreshments. It was very leisure lunch, a fact we could not
change if we tried.
Heading back down the river, the current was now speeding us along as
the tide was going out. We were still in the more shaded parts of the
river when we caught sight of a white bird just up ahead. Glenn turned
off the motor and we coasted up to it for an up close photo op. Just as
we were poised with cameras in hand, the darn bird few off down the
tunnel and around the corner out of sight. How inconsiderate, we were
still focusing! As we round the the next bend, there it was again.
Everyone scrambled to pull out there cameras. Just as before it waited
till the last moment and gave us a great butt shot. We continued in
this attempt for about four or five times, determined beyond reason to
capture the elusive egret that was mocking us all the way. In the end,
we were convinced that it was all a conspiracy and the egret was really
an animatronic escapee from the Tiki Room!
By the time we got back to the river entrance the water level was too
low and we had to carry the dingy around to the beach. We stopped
a while to chat with some of the cruisers from our anchorage. Today they
were having a beach social. The guys were having a lawn bowling
tournament and some of the girls were in deep contemplation over a
variant of dominos called "Chicken Foot". One gal was making and selling
jewelry to supplement her cruising expenses, and I felt an irresistible
urge to assist her with her goal. All the cruisers were friendly, chatty
and willing to share their stories and experiences with us.
When it was time to leave, everyone hit the beach. Rebecca, Monica and
I decided to swim back to the boat. That night our neighboring cruiser
loaned us the dvd "McHale's Navy for our viewing pleasure. We were able
to look for the places in the movie that we had seen earlier that day.
It was a great finale to the day.
Paula
-- Feb 7.08 ---
Thursday morning we pulled up the anchor and made for Barra de Navidad
only a couple of hours further south. The trip is smooth and
uneventful. As we approached the harbor entrance we kept and eye out
for the many shoals (sand bars) laying in wait to stop us in our tracks.
We picked our way through and set anchor in the lagoon, joining up
with many new cruisers.
The town of Barra de Navidad is charming and we enjoyed exploring some
of its nooks and crannies. We had lunch at one of the many restaurants
that over look the beach and ordered up fish tacos and cervazas all
around. The other side of the harbor is more of a resort area with
modern amenities so it was the best of both worlds.
That night we hung out at the bow of the boat enjoying a little star
gazing and the the reflections of boat lights in the water. As we sat
there we could here bits of conversation from other boats drifting
across the still water. It was a great way to unwind from the whole trip.
----------------
--- Feb 8.08 ---
Friday morning and we are on the radio placing an order with the
"French Baker" for croissants and baguettes. The french baker is
located in town and takes to his dingy each morning and visits the
harbor and lagoon with his wares. It's fun to watch him ping pong from
boat to boat as he makes his way to us. He is a very popular man and
It's best to call in ahead of time to ensure your favorite treat is
available.
Today we head to the resort side of the harbor to make arrangements for
our flight home tomorrow. While there, we wander a secluded part of the
grounds and spy an iguana sunning itself on the manicured lawns. He
quickly decides that three is a crowd and high tails it to the nearest
hedge.
Tonight we hoped to relax and enjoy one last starry night before heading
home tomorrow. But in the morning we discovered we were taking more
home than just memories. Tragically, we were the victims of the "no
seeums". To our discomfort, every piece of clothing we put on chafed
and rubbed and served to remind us that Paradise is not without its
pitfalls.
--------------
--- Feb 15 ---
Both of us have now found our way home and have had a week to plug in
and catch back up with the faster, busier pace of SoCal. Looking back on
the trip, we had a fantastic time and saw some amazing things and new
parts of the world that we will never forget. I hope you have enjoyed
the adventure of our three weeks and roughly 1300 nautical miles with us.
So this last email brings to a close this voyage but there are more on
the horizon. If you want to be included in future mailings send me a
quick note.
We'll keep you posted.
Paula & Rebecca
If you have any remarks you would like share send them to
paula@indigoharbor.com
--- 2.6.08 - Tenacatita ---
Wednesday morning we headed for the river entrance to begin the jungle
tour. Tho a bit shallow we managed to get through the entrance with
only minor bumper car action. The River meandered back and forth and was
lined with mangroves on either side.
The first part of the trip the water way was open and the sun
illuminated the bird life in the trees. As the cruise progressed the
channel narrowed and trees grew together creating tunnels. At some point
our cruise began to resemble the Disney Jungle Tour with our combined
imagination and Rebecca's tour guide narration. Floating bark became
shed crocodile skin. Mangrove limbs hacked away to accommodate pangas
became menacing fingers of doom ready to pluck unsuspecting cruisers
from their dingies. Thankfully, we reached the end before things got
too out of hand.
The path ended up into a lagoon with a clearing to one side where others
had beached their rides. We walked a short distance up a dirt road and
found ourselves on the beach with several restaurant options for lunch
and refreshments. It was very leisure lunch, a fact we could not
change if we tried.
Heading back down the river, the current was now speeding us along as
the tide was going out. We were still in the more shaded parts of the
river when we caught sight of a white bird just up ahead. Glenn turned
off the motor and we coasted up to it for an up close photo op. Just as
we were poised with cameras in hand, the darn bird few off down the
tunnel and around the corner out of sight. How inconsiderate, we were
still focusing! As we round the the next bend, there it was again.
Everyone scrambled to pull out there cameras. Just as before it waited
till the last moment and gave us a great butt shot. We continued in
this attempt for about four or five times, determined beyond reason to
capture the elusive egret that was mocking us all the way. In the end,
we were convinced that it was all a conspiracy and the egret was really
an animatronic escapee from the Tiki Room!
By the time we got back to the river entrance the water level was too
low and we had to carry the dingy around to the beach. We stopped
a while to chat with some of the cruisers from our anchorage. Today they
were having a beach social. The guys were having a lawn bowling
tournament and some of the girls were in deep contemplation over a
variant of dominos called "Chicken Foot". One gal was making and selling
jewelry to supplement her cruising expenses, and I felt an irresistible
urge to assist her with her goal. All the cruisers were friendly, chatty
and willing to share their stories and experiences with us.
When it was time to leave, everyone hit the beach. Rebecca, Monica and
I decided to swim back to the boat. That night our neighboring cruiser
loaned us the dvd "McHale's Navy for our viewing pleasure. We were able
to look for the places in the movie that we had seen earlier that day.
It was a great finale to the day.
Paula
-- Feb 7.08 ---
Thursday morning we pulled up the anchor and made for Barra de Navidad
only a couple of hours further south. The trip is smooth and
uneventful. As we approached the harbor entrance we kept and eye out
for the many shoals (sand bars) laying in wait to stop us in our tracks.
We picked our way through and set anchor in the lagoon, joining up
with many new cruisers.
The town of Barra de Navidad is charming and we enjoyed exploring some
of its nooks and crannies. We had lunch at one of the many restaurants
that over look the beach and ordered up fish tacos and cervazas all
around. The other side of the harbor is more of a resort area with
modern amenities so it was the best of both worlds.
That night we hung out at the bow of the boat enjoying a little star
gazing and the the reflections of boat lights in the water. As we sat
there we could here bits of conversation from other boats drifting
across the still water. It was a great way to unwind from the whole trip.
----------------
--- Feb 8.08 ---
Friday morning and we are on the radio placing an order with the
"French Baker" for croissants and baguettes. The french baker is
located in town and takes to his dingy each morning and visits the
harbor and lagoon with his wares. It's fun to watch him ping pong from
boat to boat as he makes his way to us. He is a very popular man and
It's best to call in ahead of time to ensure your favorite treat is
available.
Today we head to the resort side of the harbor to make arrangements for
our flight home tomorrow. While there, we wander a secluded part of the
grounds and spy an iguana sunning itself on the manicured lawns. He
quickly decides that three is a crowd and high tails it to the nearest
hedge.
Tonight we hoped to relax and enjoy one last starry night before heading
home tomorrow. But in the morning we discovered we were taking more
home than just memories. Tragically, we were the victims of the "no
seeums". To our discomfort, every piece of clothing we put on chafed
and rubbed and served to remind us that Paradise is not without its
pitfalls.
--------------
--- Feb 15 ---
Both of us have now found our way home and have had a week to plug in
and catch back up with the faster, busier pace of SoCal. Looking back on
the trip, we had a fantastic time and saw some amazing things and new
parts of the world that we will never forget. I hope you have enjoyed
the adventure of our three weeks and roughly 1300 nautical miles with us.
So this last email brings to a close this voyage but there are more on
the horizon. If you want to be included in future mailings send me a
quick note.
We'll keep you posted.
Paula & Rebecca
If you have any remarks you would like share send them to
paula@indigoharbor.com
Friday, February 8, 2008
More words from Paula
As with all blogs the latest entries are on the top. So to catch up you have to go down the blog and work your way up. These are more of Paula's email to her husband and I think this group is in order. I am not certain that they were sent in order but either way I am sure I will get all of her emails mixed up but the info is there, enjoy.
Sunday morning in Abreojos and I'm sleeping in. Don't know what time it is, Don't care. Can't even remember what day it is. Wow, I must be a cruiser. This morning we're going in for a few provisions. We have to do a beach landing with the dingy. It's going to be interesting because there are small waves to deal with. Glenn took us over in groups to test out the landing and we successfully made it with only our calves getting wet.
We walked a couple of blocks into town to a little market told to us by Paco the panga driver. It is definitely small and had most of the stuff we need. As we walked back, we were passed by "a truck." No other vehicles could be seen in either direction. Very eerie! When we got to the beach we called Glenn on the radio for a pick up.
Glenn timed his arrival well in between waves. However, our exit was not so gracefully. We scrambled to get into the dingy, but the dingy turned sidewise and by the time we got it facing the right direction, we had missed our window of opportunity. Our combined weight loaded the dingy down so that instead of going over the next wave we sank down in front of it. Needless to say, no one was spared from the shower that cascaded over the front. It was a soggy ride back to the boat, fortunately the groceries were prepackaged and we had a casualty of only one egg.
We decided to leave that afternoon for Cabo. A weather system was moving in that we hoped would further our sailing to warmer temperatures. So far, we had been bringing the cold, overcast climates along with us.
Monday was another all day sail. The sea's were not so kind and both Monica and I were a bit queasy. I was a little disappointed that after sailing for over a week, I could still get seasick. But I guess under the right sea conditions and the awkward shifting of the boat it can still take you down!
Later that day Glenn put out three fishing lines as we were approaching shallower depths, but we had no takers. We left the lines out trailing behind the boat in hopes of a nibble. Later when we were distracted with other things, we crossed over a seamount(submerged mountain top) and suddenly all three lines at once took a hit. There was chaos on deck as Rebecca throttled back on the engine, Glenn grabbed on line and Monica the other. Unfortunately, Monica's line got fouled with the third line which stopped the reeling in process dead in its tracks. Eventually, all lines were brought in and to the disgust of our captain, the fish turned out to me mackerel. Lucky for them, they got a "Get out of the frying pan" FREE CARD, and took a one way trip back to the sea.
My night shift(6:00pm-9:00pm) turned out to be interesting. The moon was just a sliver and the clouds finally parted so that we could see a multitude of stars. We could see the Red glow of Mars clearly in the night sky. The sea was phosphorescent that night and we identified, what looked like torpedoes, as dolphins running along side our boat. Traffic picked up as we headed toward Cabo. WE had to avoid two cruise ships as they passed two miles to our port side.
24 54.4N 112 35.0W 1100 hours (our 3 fish log entry)
More email to come. Love Paula
Tuesday - Today the seas were "Lumpy" as per Captain Glenn. It must be a nautical term! Despite the chop, I seemed to be doing better than the day before. The winds were blowing between 20-25 knots. We hauled up the Jeniker and at one point we briefly hit 14.5 knots. We were able to sail (no motor) for 12 hours. This is the most we have sailed at any one time. Glenn's arms were sore the next day from working the Jeniker, but he was a happy camper.
Later in the afternoon we were treated to the sight of a pod of dolphins (25-30) racing towards us in the distance. They were leaping through the air, diving in and out of the waves. When they reach us, they dove under the boat and disappeared. Just when we thought the show was over, a short time later we saw more of them. This time they were more playful and were doing summersaults in the swells at the bow of our boat.
We arrived at Cabo that night and set anchor at around 9:00 pm. We had time for a quick nightcap and then promptly hit the sack.
0700 hours 23 31.5N 111 03.0W
I trying to catch up on the email, I had a few down days.
Love, Paula
Wednesday - Another leisurely morning sleeping in. The sun is shinning and the bay is a hub of activity. There are the parasailing boats, glass bottom boats, jet skies, and fishing boats. All of whom's wake send our boat rocking violently at times because there are no wake restrictions.
In the early morning when its calm we hear the call of the seals and see the occasional sting ray jumping high into the air. Could there be a correlation between the two - seal, ray . . . snack!
We head into town for a few provisions in the dingy. We ping-pong around the harbor trying to find the dingy tie-up so that we can go ashore. In our wandering we ran across two of Mr. Terrible's boats (normally docked in Newport Harbor.) So this is where he's hiding out! The harbor is very commercial, however, we were happy to take ad advantage of the internet cafe before heading to the market. Later as we headed back to the boat we managed to arrive high & dry despite the wake issues.
In the late afternoon two of the New Zealand "America's Cup" boats came out for a cruise and passed by our anchorage. Quit a sight to behold!
Sunset brings boaters into the bay for the best view, but it is by no means the end of the evening. We could hear the night clubs well into the evening.
2119 Hour 22 53.2N 109 53.9W
That's all for now, Paula
Thursday - got a weather update reporting 35 knots winds in the Sea of Cortez for the next few days. We experienced 25 knot winds and decided that was about the max we wanted to deal with. Rather than holding up in Cabo and endure the bay traffic, we headed 15 miles around the bend to San Jose del Cabo. Glenn has an old friend living there that he hasn't seen in years and he wanted to touch base with him while we were in the area.
Our cruise started off well. We saw more whales and of course tour boats chasing them down. It was like watching a cattle drive. There didn't seem to be any restrictions as to how close the tour boats where allowed to get. I can't help but think one flick of the tail and . . . well, I guess that wouldn't be fair to the tourists.
Our trip was about three hours and what a spanking we got. We had white cap waves and frequent swells that left the bow of the boat drenched. We made it to Marina Puerto Los Cabo. It was newly opened and significantly sheltered from the mess outside. We checked in and took some time to sit and enjoy the sun.
Later a fellow cruiser stopped by to chat. Renee from Ahi Kali was in serious need of female bonding and we were happy to oblige. Glenn took that moment to vacate in search of something, anything at all.
We went into town for dinner and spent the evening wandering through an art festival Renee had told us about. It's great meeting new cruisers and getting the low down on where to go and what to see.
1155 hours 23 02.9N 109 40.3W
____________________
Friday was a productive day. The girls did some house cleaning, washed the boat down and did a little laundry. Glenn went parts hunting with his friend. It seems to be a common theme about boats. They're always in a state of repair!
The girls treated themselves to lunch in town and continued their exploration from the previous night. Later after dinner we looked through the extensive movie collection on board. The choice was unanimous and the classic "Captain Ron" was popped into the player. You know it was a hit when days later, "Ronisms" kept coming up in our daily activities.
Along those lines, one of the things our captain stresses is crucial to running a smooth ship is that there be ice for his Captain Morgan. And one of the most important jobs on board the boat is the ice maker. We have none! Therefore it is the responsibility of some lucky crew member to refill the ice trays as often a possible in hopes of outrunning the captain's consumption and thereby creating a reserve. I would therefore like to announce the promotion of swabby Rebecca to Ice Mechanic 1st Class, for a job well done in creating a stash above and beyond the captain's wildest expectations.
Monday is another day of firsts. This morning the captain found a stowaway on board. Flying fish are commonly found on deck, so it is advisable to patrol the deck each morning before the offender in question begins to emit unpleasant aromas. This mornings specimen was a squid, about six inches in length. Unfortunately, by the time it was discovered it was rather stiff and jerky like. The crew's decision was unanimous, the stowaway was sentenced to walk the plank, or in this case, a quick shuffle of the foot and it was helped over the side.
Today Glenn is determined to catch something edible before we reach land. The lines were spooled out and the waiting game began.
Meanwhile, Rebecca is taking her turn on watch. We soon heard her cry out "Sea Turtle," and the rest of us rush out on deck. We are just in time to see the smooth rounded shell of a turtle bobbing up and down in the waves as we cruise by. Must have been solar powered!
Again, when we least expect it, the fishing line took a hit. All activities stop and "who's on first," routine begins. Rebecca throttles back on the engine, Monica goes to reel in the second line (Don't need to complicate matters with two fish at once.} Glenn yells "It's a big one," and Paula reaches for the gaff instead of the net. As the fish is dragged closer, he can see that it is a Dorado. Glenn is elated! He has been waiting all trip to land this fish. It was a great team effort and if a picture is worth a thousand words it would look something like this. . . Glenn poised on the swim step, filet knife in hand. Monica is sitting on deck reading out of fishing guide how to filet a fish. Rebecca is standing watch to make sure no shark fins appear near the back of the boat, as Glenn is only inches from the water level where he is throwing undesirable fish parts over the side. Paula brings the boat back up to speed and has the dubious pleasure of being and encouraging on looker.
0700 Hours 20 30.4N 106 33.6W
______________________________
Tuesday morning we arrive at Tenacatita. It's a beautiful bay, relatively unspoiled and is the location where they filmed the remake of McHales's Navy. It is a favorite destination one can tell as there are 29 other boats anchored in the area.
We set anchor, have a little lunch and sit back and enjoy the sun. A short time later another boat pull into the bay. The cruise up to our boat and introduce themselves. "Our brother, Bill told us to look for you," they said. The boat name is ENCORE. We met Bill a the San Diego marina. His boat was docked just down from ours. He said his brother and sister would be cruising the same direction and told us to keep a eye out for them. It is surprising what a small world the cruising community is and how friendly they can be.
Later the girls decide to head for the beach. Rebecca and Paula on Kayaks and Monica swimming along side. Rebecca's initial getting into the Kayak was less than graceful and she promptly tipped it over. Her beach landing did not fair much better as she made like sea glass and tumbled her way in through the surf. It's about this time Monica remembers to tell us to shuffle our feet in the water to stir up the sand so that we scare off any sting rays sleeping on the bottom. We heard on the radio net that one of the other cruisers in our anchorage stepped on one the day before and was not a happy camper.
Once all were on shore, we headed down the beach to the Palapa(structure with a roof made of palm frond's.) The bar is closed on Tuesdays and today is Tuesday. Monica and I checked out the entrance to a river where we can take a self guided jungle tour through Mangrove trees. We plan to do this tomorrow but it looks like we will have to navigate the entrance at high tide to avoid rocks and sand bars. Meanwhile, Rebecca is at the other end of the beach schmoozing a local out of one of the coconuts he was harvesting. He even lopped the top off it and put a straw in it. Leave to Rebecca to find the only drink available on the beach.
That night we heard an update on the net regarding the sting ray victim. Apparently, he received another shock that night when he went to use the toilet and found a squid staring up at him. His toilet was also a salt water flush which didn't have a grate to filter out the biologic's. The person who was acting as net control, said on occasion one could expect to find baby crabs swimming around as well. "Cover your ass!" has a whole new meaning when traveling the high seas.
0905 Hours 19 17.9N 104 50.2W
i Byron,
We made it and are now in Bar Navidad. Glenn has a delivery to make and needs to be on the boat (which is here) on Wednesday getting it ready for departure. We're going into town tomorrow to find an internet cafe. Rebecca is determined to book the flight from here. She says she can't stay until Monday or Tuesday if it can be avoided. She has too many commitment she needs to get back for. So we will check it out and let you know what the flight schedule will be.
If you have any comments send an email to Rebecca's account before tomorrow. Might get it faster. Otherwise you can direct anything to Glenn's email.
Love, Paula
Sunday morning in Abreojos and I'm sleeping in. Don't know what time it is, Don't care. Can't even remember what day it is. Wow, I must be a cruiser. This morning we're going in for a few provisions. We have to do a beach landing with the dingy. It's going to be interesting because there are small waves to deal with. Glenn took us over in groups to test out the landing and we successfully made it with only our calves getting wet.
We walked a couple of blocks into town to a little market told to us by Paco the panga driver. It is definitely small and had most of the stuff we need. As we walked back, we were passed by "a truck." No other vehicles could be seen in either direction. Very eerie! When we got to the beach we called Glenn on the radio for a pick up.
Glenn timed his arrival well in between waves. However, our exit was not so gracefully. We scrambled to get into the dingy, but the dingy turned sidewise and by the time we got it facing the right direction, we had missed our window of opportunity. Our combined weight loaded the dingy down so that instead of going over the next wave we sank down in front of it. Needless to say, no one was spared from the shower that cascaded over the front. It was a soggy ride back to the boat, fortunately the groceries were prepackaged and we had a casualty of only one egg.
We decided to leave that afternoon for Cabo. A weather system was moving in that we hoped would further our sailing to warmer temperatures. So far, we had been bringing the cold, overcast climates along with us.
Monday was another all day sail. The sea's were not so kind and both Monica and I were a bit queasy. I was a little disappointed that after sailing for over a week, I could still get seasick. But I guess under the right sea conditions and the awkward shifting of the boat it can still take you down!
Later that day Glenn put out three fishing lines as we were approaching shallower depths, but we had no takers. We left the lines out trailing behind the boat in hopes of a nibble. Later when we were distracted with other things, we crossed over a seamount(submerged mountain top) and suddenly all three lines at once took a hit. There was chaos on deck as Rebecca throttled back on the engine, Glenn grabbed on line and Monica the other. Unfortunately, Monica's line got fouled with the third line which stopped the reeling in process dead in its tracks. Eventually, all lines were brought in and to the disgust of our captain, the fish turned out to me mackerel. Lucky for them, they got a "Get out of the frying pan" FREE CARD, and took a one way trip back to the sea.
My night shift(6:00pm-9:00pm) turned out to be interesting. The moon was just a sliver and the clouds finally parted so that we could see a multitude of stars. We could see the Red glow of Mars clearly in the night sky. The sea was phosphorescent that night and we identified, what looked like torpedoes, as dolphins running along side our boat. Traffic picked up as we headed toward Cabo. WE had to avoid two cruise ships as they passed two miles to our port side.
24 54.4N 112 35.0W 1100 hours (our 3 fish log entry)
More email to come. Love Paula
Tuesday - Today the seas were "Lumpy" as per Captain Glenn. It must be a nautical term! Despite the chop, I seemed to be doing better than the day before. The winds were blowing between 20-25 knots. We hauled up the Jeniker and at one point we briefly hit 14.5 knots. We were able to sail (no motor) for 12 hours. This is the most we have sailed at any one time. Glenn's arms were sore the next day from working the Jeniker, but he was a happy camper.
Later in the afternoon we were treated to the sight of a pod of dolphins (25-30) racing towards us in the distance. They were leaping through the air, diving in and out of the waves. When they reach us, they dove under the boat and disappeared. Just when we thought the show was over, a short time later we saw more of them. This time they were more playful and were doing summersaults in the swells at the bow of our boat.
We arrived at Cabo that night and set anchor at around 9:00 pm. We had time for a quick nightcap and then promptly hit the sack.
0700 hours 23 31.5N 111 03.0W
I trying to catch up on the email, I had a few down days.
Love, Paula
Wednesday - Another leisurely morning sleeping in. The sun is shinning and the bay is a hub of activity. There are the parasailing boats, glass bottom boats, jet skies, and fishing boats. All of whom's wake send our boat rocking violently at times because there are no wake restrictions.
In the early morning when its calm we hear the call of the seals and see the occasional sting ray jumping high into the air. Could there be a correlation between the two - seal, ray . . . snack!
We head into town for a few provisions in the dingy. We ping-pong around the harbor trying to find the dingy tie-up so that we can go ashore. In our wandering we ran across two of Mr. Terrible's boats (normally docked in Newport Harbor.) So this is where he's hiding out! The harbor is very commercial, however, we were happy to take ad advantage of the internet cafe before heading to the market. Later as we headed back to the boat we managed to arrive high & dry despite the wake issues.
In the late afternoon two of the New Zealand "America's Cup" boats came out for a cruise and passed by our anchorage. Quit a sight to behold!
Sunset brings boaters into the bay for the best view, but it is by no means the end of the evening. We could hear the night clubs well into the evening.
2119 Hour 22 53.2N 109 53.9W
That's all for now, Paula
Thursday - got a weather update reporting 35 knots winds in the Sea of Cortez for the next few days. We experienced 25 knot winds and decided that was about the max we wanted to deal with. Rather than holding up in Cabo and endure the bay traffic, we headed 15 miles around the bend to San Jose del Cabo. Glenn has an old friend living there that he hasn't seen in years and he wanted to touch base with him while we were in the area.
Our cruise started off well. We saw more whales and of course tour boats chasing them down. It was like watching a cattle drive. There didn't seem to be any restrictions as to how close the tour boats where allowed to get. I can't help but think one flick of the tail and . . . well, I guess that wouldn't be fair to the tourists.
Our trip was about three hours and what a spanking we got. We had white cap waves and frequent swells that left the bow of the boat drenched. We made it to Marina Puerto Los Cabo. It was newly opened and significantly sheltered from the mess outside. We checked in and took some time to sit and enjoy the sun.
Later a fellow cruiser stopped by to chat. Renee from Ahi Kali was in serious need of female bonding and we were happy to oblige. Glenn took that moment to vacate in search of something, anything at all.
We went into town for dinner and spent the evening wandering through an art festival Renee had told us about. It's great meeting new cruisers and getting the low down on where to go and what to see.
1155 hours 23 02.9N 109 40.3W
____________________
Friday was a productive day. The girls did some house cleaning, washed the boat down and did a little laundry. Glenn went parts hunting with his friend. It seems to be a common theme about boats. They're always in a state of repair!
The girls treated themselves to lunch in town and continued their exploration from the previous night. Later after dinner we looked through the extensive movie collection on board. The choice was unanimous and the classic "Captain Ron" was popped into the player. You know it was a hit when days later, "Ronisms" kept coming up in our daily activities.
Along those lines, one of the things our captain stresses is crucial to running a smooth ship is that there be ice for his Captain Morgan. And one of the most important jobs on board the boat is the ice maker. We have none! Therefore it is the responsibility of some lucky crew member to refill the ice trays as often a possible in hopes of outrunning the captain's consumption and thereby creating a reserve. I would therefore like to announce the promotion of swabby Rebecca to Ice Mechanic 1st Class, for a job well done in creating a stash above and beyond the captain's wildest expectations.
Monday is another day of firsts. This morning the captain found a stowaway on board. Flying fish are commonly found on deck, so it is advisable to patrol the deck each morning before the offender in question begins to emit unpleasant aromas. This mornings specimen was a squid, about six inches in length. Unfortunately, by the time it was discovered it was rather stiff and jerky like. The crew's decision was unanimous, the stowaway was sentenced to walk the plank, or in this case, a quick shuffle of the foot and it was helped over the side.
Today Glenn is determined to catch something edible before we reach land. The lines were spooled out and the waiting game began.
Meanwhile, Rebecca is taking her turn on watch. We soon heard her cry out "Sea Turtle," and the rest of us rush out on deck. We are just in time to see the smooth rounded shell of a turtle bobbing up and down in the waves as we cruise by. Must have been solar powered!
Again, when we least expect it, the fishing line took a hit. All activities stop and "who's on first," routine begins. Rebecca throttles back on the engine, Monica goes to reel in the second line (Don't need to complicate matters with two fish at once.} Glenn yells "It's a big one," and Paula reaches for the gaff instead of the net. As the fish is dragged closer, he can see that it is a Dorado. Glenn is elated! He has been waiting all trip to land this fish. It was a great team effort and if a picture is worth a thousand words it would look something like this. . . Glenn poised on the swim step, filet knife in hand. Monica is sitting on deck reading out of fishing guide how to filet a fish. Rebecca is standing watch to make sure no shark fins appear near the back of the boat, as Glenn is only inches from the water level where he is throwing undesirable fish parts over the side. Paula brings the boat back up to speed and has the dubious pleasure of being and encouraging on looker.
0700 Hours 20 30.4N 106 33.6W
______________________________
Tuesday morning we arrive at Tenacatita. It's a beautiful bay, relatively unspoiled and is the location where they filmed the remake of McHales's Navy. It is a favorite destination one can tell as there are 29 other boats anchored in the area.
We set anchor, have a little lunch and sit back and enjoy the sun. A short time later another boat pull into the bay. The cruise up to our boat and introduce themselves. "Our brother, Bill told us to look for you," they said. The boat name is ENCORE. We met Bill a the San Diego marina. His boat was docked just down from ours. He said his brother and sister would be cruising the same direction and told us to keep a eye out for them. It is surprising what a small world the cruising community is and how friendly they can be.
Later the girls decide to head for the beach. Rebecca and Paula on Kayaks and Monica swimming along side. Rebecca's initial getting into the Kayak was less than graceful and she promptly tipped it over. Her beach landing did not fair much better as she made like sea glass and tumbled her way in through the surf. It's about this time Monica remembers to tell us to shuffle our feet in the water to stir up the sand so that we scare off any sting rays sleeping on the bottom. We heard on the radio net that one of the other cruisers in our anchorage stepped on one the day before and was not a happy camper.
Once all were on shore, we headed down the beach to the Palapa(structure with a roof made of palm frond's.) The bar is closed on Tuesdays and today is Tuesday. Monica and I checked out the entrance to a river where we can take a self guided jungle tour through Mangrove trees. We plan to do this tomorrow but it looks like we will have to navigate the entrance at high tide to avoid rocks and sand bars. Meanwhile, Rebecca is at the other end of the beach schmoozing a local out of one of the coconuts he was harvesting. He even lopped the top off it and put a straw in it. Leave to Rebecca to find the only drink available on the beach.
That night we heard an update on the net regarding the sting ray victim. Apparently, he received another shock that night when he went to use the toilet and found a squid staring up at him. His toilet was also a salt water flush which didn't have a grate to filter out the biologic's. The person who was acting as net control, said on occasion one could expect to find baby crabs swimming around as well. "Cover your ass!" has a whole new meaning when traveling the high seas.
0905 Hours 19 17.9N 104 50.2W
i Byron,
We made it and are now in Bar Navidad. Glenn has a delivery to make and needs to be on the boat (which is here) on Wednesday getting it ready for departure. We're going into town tomorrow to find an internet cafe. Rebecca is determined to book the flight from here. She says she can't stay until Monday or Tuesday if it can be avoided. She has too many commitment she needs to get back for. So we will check it out and let you know what the flight schedule will be.
If you have any comments send an email to Rebecca's account before tomorrow. Might get it faster. Otherwise you can direct anything to Glenn's email.
Love, Paula
Saturday, February 2, 2008
Our journey down Baja
I have been busy with boat stuff so I have not composed anything for the blog. Paula, one of the crew, has been sending wordy emails to here husband and friends so I will just cut and paste her posts here so everyone knows what is going on so far. I will take the time to update the blog once I am in Barra Navidad.
Paula writes;
Hi Byron, here is an update so far. Will try to send more as things progress.
Sunday, motored into Ensenada. Got there at night and tied up to the fuel dock in Coral Harbor. Next morning had chance to take a quick shower, last chance till turtle bay, about three days out. We ran into John & Jeannie Burzan (NMA)on the dock, small cruising world. As I walked up the fuel dock I was shocked to recognize the bathroom facilities as being the ones we used when Astor docked here - deja vu. Went with Monica to see port captain which turned out to be a three hour tour. The captain insisted that all hands be present so we had to send Becka and Glen to see him after we returned.
Monday, we left Ensenada around noon. As we approached the Coronado Islands, a pod of dolphins escorted us. They were playing in the bow wake, and as I leaned over the edge of trampoline, I got sprayed in the face by a surfacing dolphin. "Thar she blows," has a whole new meaning. While B & I were sleeping, M & G saw whales. Later, when I got up I saw two spouts and whale surface. Becka missed it. Fashionably late as usual. What a rock star!
Yesterday the seas were calm today we are getting swells and everyone is a bit quesy. Despite all this we all managed to scarf down Monica's great meals. Becka and I are doing 3 hour shifts but doubling up with G & M in the evenings. We will be sailing straight through the next 3 days to turtle bay. The nights have been frigid. We are about 3-4 blankets deep and sleeping in our clothes. Definitely looking for changes in latitude!
Tuesday, started my shift at 5:30. The seas are calm, the moon is reflecting on the water; the Sun is about to rise; and two brightly shinning stars are determined to cast their brilence to the end in the coming dawn. Quite the stellar morning!
Everyone appears in better spirits this morning - a reset after yesterdays rock and roll. Rebecca is holding her own without taking anti-seasick medication although she can't sit in the salon for too long. Today she saw a blow spout. The rest of us think she is full of it.
What's that streaming across my face, why its the wind. Wind! This is the first day we have been able to turn of the engines and put up the new jeniker sail. For four hours we were actually sailing and we hit 8 knots. Glen was hopping around like a proud papa.
Tonight's meal is the one-pot-wonder of chile mac. And in honor of our better appetites and our first bit of actual sailing we broke out a bottle of two buck chuck.
Please forward on to my list of people.
Love, Paula
Byron, here is the next update.
Wedn morning is overcast and we are currently motoring past Cedros Isle. We should be in Turtle Bay around noon.
I find it curious that we are traveling about 2 miles off shore and we are being invaded by flies. Curiosity quickly turned to annoyance and Monica broke out the fly zapper. This took the form of a tennis racket that electrifies insects on contact. What does one do when they land on ones sister. Smack! Zap! Two pests in one.
We must be getting close because we are picking our way through lobster pots like a mine field. As we round the corner into Turtle Bay we start seeing multiple spouts of water and an occasional fluke waving salute.
We set the anchor and poured a round of cocktails to celebrate our arrival. Paula had a mango & rum. Anyone for a little "Captain." Glen is in constant "MacGyver" mode and installed outside speakers for the evening mood music. Meanwhile, Rebecca, beer in hand rocks out to Jimmy Buffet's "Cheeseburger in Paradise." We followed this up with steak on the barbie and a bottle of wine. We managed to stay awake long enough to watch a movie, but we were secretly longing for our first night of uninterrupted sleep since Ensendada.
Thursday - The town of Turtle Bay is a relatively small fishing village. They have two warring fuel suppliers and pongas(boats) from both, race out to meet incoming cruisers vying for their patronage. Glen has been here before and has his preference.
This morning we heard the bells of a church on shore that Rebecca swears looks like IHOP. This of course set the tone for breakfast. We splurged and had pancakes and Monica's banana fosters topping.
Today is overcast and rain has finally caught up to us. It's a good day to be inside and several of us pull out cherished books which we were unable to read previously without being ill. We watch all day as a few other cruisers motor into the harbor and set anchor. Glen took the ding over to say hello to "Fantasia," a boat that tied up next to us at the fuel dock in Ensenada. After dinner we got into a rip roaring game of Mexican train(Dominoes} before calling is quits for the evening.
Hope all is well. Any new updates on Astor or Lannie? How is Kitty? How is the progress?
Love, Paula
Friday morning we were happy to see signs of clearing. For the last several days we have been walking around dressed like Eskimo. Today however, the sun came out by noon and we were finely able to put on shorts and T's.
This change in weather also signified the first opportunity for showers. The sun shower bag was hoisted by halyard and the nosel feed through the bathroom skylight. While most hands were on deck securing the line to the water bag, Paula ran to the front of the line and locked herself in the shower before anyone could beat her to the punch. First one in, warmest water. Ahhhhhh!
We pulled up anchor and motored over to "Fantasia" to give our greetings. Fantasia's crew consists of Jeff, Ann and their two daughters Julie and Krista. The day before we agreed to cruise out together to San Ignacio, our next whale adventure. Jeff tells us there are already five other cruisers ahead of us in San Ignacio.
As we head south along the coast, Fantasia trailing behind, we continue to see an occasional whale sunning itself at the surface. The air is so clear and the mountains multicolored like the painted desert in Arizona. Rebecca and Glen are trying their hand at fishing from the back of the boat as we again motor southbound.
We are officially back on shifts again and there will be no more sleeping in for another day and a half.
More to follow, Love Paula
27 41.1N 114 53.2W 1455 hours
Saturday - 5:30 on deck and no sight of Fantasia. Apparently we got some wind last night, raised the sails and left them far behind in our wake. They'll catch up to us later.
The morning is overcast but at least not as cold. I can see the lighthouse at Punta Abreojos where we intend to anchor. San Ignacio is just across the bay.
San Ignacio Lagoon is a protected whale refuge and is closed to vessels and dingy's. We hope to catch a tour that is licensed to take us into the lagoon.
We arrived at our destination and there is a NE wid that causes us to anchor an inlet sooner that we wanted. We hunker down for the day and wait out the blustery weather. A neighboring cruiser "Nomad" hales us to say hello. Shortly thereafter we hear them talking with Fantasia who is approaching and just visible on the horizon.
Later that morning we arrange for a panga(small boat) to pick us up and take us to the whale lagoon. Paco arrives in his fiberglass fishing boat that smells mildly of fish. We all jump in and Paco takes off at a screaming pace across the bay. Unfortunately, the wind and waves are against us and the boat begins to pouond into the waves. I do believe that this ride has far surpassed the organ, rearranging Botz dots of the Mexican roads.
About one hour later we arrive at the entrance to the lagoon where we met Victor from Yukima tours. We all transfer to his panga and begin to motor into the lagoon. Unlike the wind swept waves outside, the lagoon is as smooth as glass and we begin looking for the tell tale signs of whales nearby.
All is quiet for a few moments when someone shouts and we all look to the right in time to see a spout. Then another yell and off in the distance we see a peeker. A peeker is a whale that comes out of the water vertically so that only its head is exposed (peeking to see what all the ruckus is about,) before sinking back under. Our guide navigates our panga in a meandering fashion, searching for any close by.
To be continued. See next email.
0600 hours 26 42.7N - 113 33.9W
Love, Paula
The the following information is rated (EE) Extreme Envy and may invoke undesirable feelings in some readers.
Suddenly nearby we see a hump crest the surface and a moment later a smaller hump next to it. At last we have found a mother and her baby swimming side by side. Monica estimates that the baby is about 14 feet long and mom is about 35 feet. Victor maneuvers the panga about 20 feet away and begins to match their pace and we watch as the humps surface and submerge several times. All goes quiet and we lose track of where they have gone. Without warning a spout sounds off along side the boat and the baby lifts it's head up to get a closer look.
And then the crowd goes wild! There is a frantic scramble to focus the cameras and a drastic shift in the boat from side to side as we vie for better picture taking vantage points. Paula yells "I got it, I got it," then with a look of disgust she cries, "Oh no! My thumb got in the way." Rebecca chimes in, "No, that's your nose," and everyone starts howling. Several of us had issues with trying to focus the camera before the shot was gone. After a few minutes we just stopped trying and started enjoying the show.
For some reason, the baby was very inquisitive and mom was tolerant and they hung around our panga for quit awhile. At one point baby and mom dove under the boat and we hung over the side to watch and we could see their ghost like shadow pass underneath. We immediately ran to the other side and some of us were in time to receive a spout of water directly in the face. Baby came up to the edge of the boat and I reached out and rubbed its face. Whiskers. It has whiskers! Mom surfaced right next to her offspring but always stayed just out of reach. All of us had many opportunities to touch the baby whale and we did. It was and experience beyond our wildest hopes.
Toward the end our our visit, both surfaced along side our boat, and as if on que, sat stationary at the surface, as if posing for the elusive pictures we had so far been unable to obtain. And when they deemed our time was done they turned and proceeded deeper into the lagoon where pangas were not allowed to follow. But we were treated to one last "Hurrah." Baby who was still feeling frisky, jumped out of the water twice for us before scurrying ahead after mom.
As we headed back to our boat we were all in a stat of amazement. I had actually touched a whale and it had whiskers! I looked over at my sister and despite the pounding of our panga, she had a grin on her face from ear to ear and wore the "whale snot" on her glasses like a badge of honor. Life just doesn't get better than that!
____________________
Byron, I hope you will put this together with the previous email and send it out. Please fix any mistakes that you see. Also, I think we may need need batteries for my camera. I thought I charged them fully, but one or two didn't seem to have much charge. I missed a few picture opportunities with the whales, but thankfully Monica got good ones and I have a CD of them. I wish you had been here. It was awesome! Love, Paula
That's it for now, more later. Glenn
Paula writes;
Hi Byron, here is an update so far. Will try to send more as things progress.
Sunday, motored into Ensenada. Got there at night and tied up to the fuel dock in Coral Harbor. Next morning had chance to take a quick shower, last chance till turtle bay, about three days out. We ran into John & Jeannie Burzan (NMA)on the dock, small cruising world. As I walked up the fuel dock I was shocked to recognize the bathroom facilities as being the ones we used when Astor docked here - deja vu. Went with Monica to see port captain which turned out to be a three hour tour. The captain insisted that all hands be present so we had to send Becka and Glen to see him after we returned.
Monday, we left Ensenada around noon. As we approached the Coronado Islands, a pod of dolphins escorted us. They were playing in the bow wake, and as I leaned over the edge of trampoline, I got sprayed in the face by a surfacing dolphin. "Thar she blows," has a whole new meaning. While B & I were sleeping, M & G saw whales. Later, when I got up I saw two spouts and whale surface. Becka missed it. Fashionably late as usual. What a rock star!
Yesterday the seas were calm today we are getting swells and everyone is a bit quesy. Despite all this we all managed to scarf down Monica's great meals. Becka and I are doing 3 hour shifts but doubling up with G & M in the evenings. We will be sailing straight through the next 3 days to turtle bay. The nights have been frigid. We are about 3-4 blankets deep and sleeping in our clothes. Definitely looking for changes in latitude!
Tuesday, started my shift at 5:30. The seas are calm, the moon is reflecting on the water; the Sun is about to rise; and two brightly shinning stars are determined to cast their brilence to the end in the coming dawn. Quite the stellar morning!
Everyone appears in better spirits this morning - a reset after yesterdays rock and roll. Rebecca is holding her own without taking anti-seasick medication although she can't sit in the salon for too long. Today she saw a blow spout. The rest of us think she is full of it.
What's that streaming across my face, why its the wind. Wind! This is the first day we have been able to turn of the engines and put up the new jeniker sail. For four hours we were actually sailing and we hit 8 knots. Glen was hopping around like a proud papa.
Tonight's meal is the one-pot-wonder of chile mac. And in honor of our better appetites and our first bit of actual sailing we broke out a bottle of two buck chuck.
Please forward on to my list of people.
Love, Paula
Byron, here is the next update.
Wedn morning is overcast and we are currently motoring past Cedros Isle. We should be in Turtle Bay around noon.
I find it curious that we are traveling about 2 miles off shore and we are being invaded by flies. Curiosity quickly turned to annoyance and Monica broke out the fly zapper. This took the form of a tennis racket that electrifies insects on contact. What does one do when they land on ones sister. Smack! Zap! Two pests in one.
We must be getting close because we are picking our way through lobster pots like a mine field. As we round the corner into Turtle Bay we start seeing multiple spouts of water and an occasional fluke waving salute.
We set the anchor and poured a round of cocktails to celebrate our arrival. Paula had a mango & rum. Anyone for a little "Captain." Glen is in constant "MacGyver" mode and installed outside speakers for the evening mood music. Meanwhile, Rebecca, beer in hand rocks out to Jimmy Buffet's "Cheeseburger in Paradise." We followed this up with steak on the barbie and a bottle of wine. We managed to stay awake long enough to watch a movie, but we were secretly longing for our first night of uninterrupted sleep since Ensendada.
Thursday - The town of Turtle Bay is a relatively small fishing village. They have two warring fuel suppliers and pongas(boats) from both, race out to meet incoming cruisers vying for their patronage. Glen has been here before and has his preference.
This morning we heard the bells of a church on shore that Rebecca swears looks like IHOP. This of course set the tone for breakfast. We splurged and had pancakes and Monica's banana fosters topping.
Today is overcast and rain has finally caught up to us. It's a good day to be inside and several of us pull out cherished books which we were unable to read previously without being ill. We watch all day as a few other cruisers motor into the harbor and set anchor. Glen took the ding over to say hello to "Fantasia," a boat that tied up next to us at the fuel dock in Ensenada. After dinner we got into a rip roaring game of Mexican train(Dominoes} before calling is quits for the evening.
Hope all is well. Any new updates on Astor or Lannie? How is Kitty? How is the progress?
Love, Paula
Friday morning we were happy to see signs of clearing. For the last several days we have been walking around dressed like Eskimo. Today however, the sun came out by noon and we were finely able to put on shorts and T's.
This change in weather also signified the first opportunity for showers. The sun shower bag was hoisted by halyard and the nosel feed through the bathroom skylight. While most hands were on deck securing the line to the water bag, Paula ran to the front of the line and locked herself in the shower before anyone could beat her to the punch. First one in, warmest water. Ahhhhhh!
We pulled up anchor and motored over to "Fantasia" to give our greetings. Fantasia's crew consists of Jeff, Ann and their two daughters Julie and Krista. The day before we agreed to cruise out together to San Ignacio, our next whale adventure. Jeff tells us there are already five other cruisers ahead of us in San Ignacio.
As we head south along the coast, Fantasia trailing behind, we continue to see an occasional whale sunning itself at the surface. The air is so clear and the mountains multicolored like the painted desert in Arizona. Rebecca and Glen are trying their hand at fishing from the back of the boat as we again motor southbound.
We are officially back on shifts again and there will be no more sleeping in for another day and a half.
More to follow, Love Paula
27 41.1N 114 53.2W 1455 hours
Saturday - 5:30 on deck and no sight of Fantasia. Apparently we got some wind last night, raised the sails and left them far behind in our wake. They'll catch up to us later.
The morning is overcast but at least not as cold. I can see the lighthouse at Punta Abreojos where we intend to anchor. San Ignacio is just across the bay.
San Ignacio Lagoon is a protected whale refuge and is closed to vessels and dingy's. We hope to catch a tour that is licensed to take us into the lagoon.
We arrived at our destination and there is a NE wid that causes us to anchor an inlet sooner that we wanted. We hunker down for the day and wait out the blustery weather. A neighboring cruiser "Nomad" hales us to say hello. Shortly thereafter we hear them talking with Fantasia who is approaching and just visible on the horizon.
Later that morning we arrange for a panga(small boat) to pick us up and take us to the whale lagoon. Paco arrives in his fiberglass fishing boat that smells mildly of fish. We all jump in and Paco takes off at a screaming pace across the bay. Unfortunately, the wind and waves are against us and the boat begins to pouond into the waves. I do believe that this ride has far surpassed the organ, rearranging Botz dots of the Mexican roads.
About one hour later we arrive at the entrance to the lagoon where we met Victor from Yukima tours. We all transfer to his panga and begin to motor into the lagoon. Unlike the wind swept waves outside, the lagoon is as smooth as glass and we begin looking for the tell tale signs of whales nearby.
All is quiet for a few moments when someone shouts and we all look to the right in time to see a spout. Then another yell and off in the distance we see a peeker. A peeker is a whale that comes out of the water vertically so that only its head is exposed (peeking to see what all the ruckus is about,) before sinking back under. Our guide navigates our panga in a meandering fashion, searching for any close by.
To be continued. See next email.
0600 hours 26 42.7N - 113 33.9W
Love, Paula
The the following information is rated (EE) Extreme Envy and may invoke undesirable feelings in some readers.
Suddenly nearby we see a hump crest the surface and a moment later a smaller hump next to it. At last we have found a mother and her baby swimming side by side. Monica estimates that the baby is about 14 feet long and mom is about 35 feet. Victor maneuvers the panga about 20 feet away and begins to match their pace and we watch as the humps surface and submerge several times. All goes quiet and we lose track of where they have gone. Without warning a spout sounds off along side the boat and the baby lifts it's head up to get a closer look.
And then the crowd goes wild! There is a frantic scramble to focus the cameras and a drastic shift in the boat from side to side as we vie for better picture taking vantage points. Paula yells "I got it, I got it," then with a look of disgust she cries, "Oh no! My thumb got in the way." Rebecca chimes in, "No, that's your nose," and everyone starts howling. Several of us had issues with trying to focus the camera before the shot was gone. After a few minutes we just stopped trying and started enjoying the show.
For some reason, the baby was very inquisitive and mom was tolerant and they hung around our panga for quit awhile. At one point baby and mom dove under the boat and we hung over the side to watch and we could see their ghost like shadow pass underneath. We immediately ran to the other side and some of us were in time to receive a spout of water directly in the face. Baby came up to the edge of the boat and I reached out and rubbed its face. Whiskers. It has whiskers! Mom surfaced right next to her offspring but always stayed just out of reach. All of us had many opportunities to touch the baby whale and we did. It was and experience beyond our wildest hopes.
Toward the end our our visit, both surfaced along side our boat, and as if on que, sat stationary at the surface, as if posing for the elusive pictures we had so far been unable to obtain. And when they deemed our time was done they turned and proceeded deeper into the lagoon where pangas were not allowed to follow. But we were treated to one last "Hurrah." Baby who was still feeling frisky, jumped out of the water twice for us before scurrying ahead after mom.
As we headed back to our boat we were all in a stat of amazement. I had actually touched a whale and it had whiskers! I looked over at my sister and despite the pounding of our panga, she had a grin on her face from ear to ear and wore the "whale snot" on her glasses like a badge of honor. Life just doesn't get better than that!
____________________
Byron, I hope you will put this together with the previous email and send it out. Please fix any mistakes that you see. Also, I think we may need need batteries for my camera. I thought I charged them fully, but one or two didn't seem to have much charge. I missed a few picture opportunities with the whales, but thankfully Monica got good ones and I have a CD of them. I wish you had been here. It was awesome! Love, Paula
That's it for now, more later. Glenn
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